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Fashion Industry Looks to Streamline with Technology

April 22nd, 2010 | No Comments | Posted in Fashion

Cited: Apparel News

Fashion 3The economy has been challenging for many industries including the fashion industry facing many rhetorical requirements.  To navigate the difficult economic terrain, apparel makers need to look to the future and then embraced technology to help smooth the road ahead.

Companies look to technology to navigate the difficult economic terrain.

Amid a challenging economic climate—and facing many regulatory requirements—apparel makers are urged to look to the future and embrace technology to help navigate the difficult economic terrain.

“There is always something that affects the apparel industry,” said Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion Association. Issues such as the slowly recovering economy, regulatory issues, two-way trade imbalances and pending regulations continue to challenge the apparel industry, she said.

Software, such as enterprise resource planning (ERP) or product lifecycle management (PLM), can help manufacturers streamline their supply chain, eliminate waste in the production process, and adhere to the timetable to efficiently meet deadlines and shorten production turn time.

In addition, developments such as radio frequency identification (RFID) technology can help streamline retail operations through efficient inventory management and timely reorders.

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Challenging landscape

Technology represents the future of the industry, said Metchek, speaking to a group of industry executives and technology providers, “and that’s why you are all here.”

Metchek was serving, for the second year in a row, as the keynote speaker for Apparel magazine’s 2010 Tech Conference West, held March 23 at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles. The event included speakers from various technology providers as well as table-top presentations.

While spending on luxury goods remains down, retailers have been reporting an uptick in spending among middle-income consumers so far this year, Metchek said, but she warned about a stall in sales during March and April when shoppers see their credit card balances from the holidays. The uptick, which Metchek attributes to pent-up demand and “frugal fatigue,” will be evident again in May, she predicted.

Regulatory issues continue to rankle apparel makers and create new technology needs. The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act, which monitors the amount of lead in consumer products, places the burden of proof on manufacturers or importers to make sure imported or domestic goods do not contain lead. Products must go through a certification process. The “10+2” regulation, which went into effect in April 2009, requires importers and shippers to provide 12 points of information 24 hours before shipments leave port. That information includes the names and addresses of the manufacturer, the buyer and the seller; county of origin; container-stuffing location; commodity numbers; and consignee number. Both of these issues, which were major focuses during the 2009 Tech Conference, are being addressed by a variety of PLM technology providers, but they remain key concerns for apparel makers and importers.

On the horizon are more regulatory issues that could affect California’s apparel makers—including two pieces of legislation that could have an impact on apparel manufacturers shipping to stores in Illinois or Washington state. Illinois’ Lead Poisoning Prevention Act applies to all children’s products and requires a warning label on those products containing more than 40 parts per million of lead. Adult products containing more than 600 parts per million of lead come under the regulation, as well. The LPPA, Metchek said, requires the same testing certification as the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act with additional labeling. Washington’s Children’s Safe Product Act, which is currently a “pilot ruling,” requires the disclosure of “chemicals of concern” on all children’s products and requests that manufacturers file a report of all the children’s products they sell to Washington-state retailers.

Metchek said apparel manufacturers will find it difficult to comply with these regulations because the 32 laboratories in the country certified to perform the required tests are back-logged.

Technology in action

Technology providers partnered with local apparel companies to showcase their offerings and provide real-life examples of their technologies in action. Mark Burstein of New Generation Computing, which produces PLM and sourcing solutions, discussed how the surfwear giant Billabong implemented NGC’s products on a global scale. Billabong, which had revenues of $1.67 billion in 2009, used NGC’s PLM program to shorten lead times, integrate line planning, monitor production activities and plan material requirements.

Brea Haley, an associate designer at Guess, spoke to attendees about Enovia, Dassault Systemes’ PLM program. Guess, which grew to a $2.1 billion company in 2009 from $637 million in 2003, implemented Enovia five years ago. “We needed flexibility, ready access to information, a single version of the truth and more collaboration between departments,” Haley said. The program also helped unify Guess’ three international offices, which are located in Los Angeles, Italy and China.

Owning the most advanced software does not always mean a company’s information-technology workers use it. During the “MRP as Your Primary Engine: How High 5 Sportswear Drove Home Success” seminar, Stillman Saunders, information-technology director of High 5 Sportswear, said his Seattle-based company had advanced material requirements planning (MRP) software last year but the company rarely used it. Instead, High 5 used Excel spreadsheets for much of its planning instead of an MRP program. The company recently installed a new MRP system from St. Paul, Minn.–based Lawson Software. Saunders said Lawson’s M3 system is more efficient than the Excel spreadsheets and offers a more thorough way to plan inventories and match demand for a product with its supply.

Since switching all of its planning functions to Lawson’s software, Saunders said, High 5 does a much better job of forecasting its needs to stock certain inventory for its sportswear, which results in less-stressed employees and more sales opportunities.

However, MRP is not a proverbial silver bullet for a company’s planning issues. “MRP is not a decision-making tool,” he said. Rather, it only provides information.

Technology for radio frequency identification, or RFID, has improved enormously recently, according to Jim Caudill, a senior vice president of marketing and strategy for Texas-based technology company Xterprise.

During his “Lean Retail: Cutting The Fat With RFID” seminar, Caudill said RFID was formerly considered as a technology targeted for manufacturers. Improvements in RFID’s capabilities have opened up new uses for retailers. Radio-frequency tracking takes human error out of crucial retail goals, such as reducing inventory loss or shrinkage, increasing store operational efficiency, and improving responsiveness to consumer demands. Xterprise will debut a new program called Clarity ARS Mobile in the second half of 2010.

Companies Honored for Their Sustainability Efforts

Apparel magazine presented five Sustainability All-Star awards during the 2010 Tech Conference to companies that have taken significant steps toward incorporating sustainable best practices in their businesses.

The five honorees were Nike, Cintas, Intradeco/Dana Undies, GoLite and Hanna Andersson Corp.

Nike was honored for its sustainable practices, including its “Considered Design” program, which strives to reduce or eliminate toxic materials and waste and increase the use of environmentally friendly products in its footwear and apparel.

Cintas nominated itself for the award after launching the “Regeneration Suiting Collection,” coordinated tailored pieces made of 100% recycled polyester made from post-consumer waste.

GoLite, which makes high-performance sustainable apparel for outdoor athletes, was nominated by Outside PR because it has replaced its use of virgin petrochemical-based materials in one of percent of its main pack fabrics, sleeping bags and luggage with recycled nylons and polyesters.

Hanna Andersson Corp., a maker of children’s clothing, was honored for its eco-friendly headquarters and business practices, which include recyclable shipping materials made of post-consumer waste and use of Oeko-Tex Standard 100–certified organic cotton in its entire line.

Intradeco/Dana Undies is an El Salvador–based vertical supplier of knit apparel and is the only vertical resource in Central America that spins certified raw bales of organic cotton.

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My Take: I thought the fashion industry had already embraced technology with online showrooms.  Apparently, I was wrong.  I know the work fashion industry is embraced technology because they are coming out with better flame resistant clothing.  I believe that it is Carhartt that produces the best fire retardant clothes in a market.  I have read that many firemen purchase Carhartt clothes because of this.

Even T shirt design is now accomplished by using computers.  Tee shirt designers now have access to some of the best graphics programs available.  Of course, like everybody with a computer, they need to protect their designs and work.  They need managed security services that will do just that.  With good intrusion prevention management, their designs are safe.

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Celebrity Billionaires Shape Our Tastes

April 7th, 2010 | No Comments | Posted in Fashion

Cited: ABC News

BillionairesDid you know that there are 1,011 billionaires in the world?  You may even recognize some of them because of media exposure if not overexposure.  Those recognize are deemed the “celebrity billionaires” because they are more than just rich, they are also famous and among the most well-known people on the planet.  In fact these “celebrity billionaires” influence us all in what we wear, watch, read and even invest in.  Take a look at Steve Jobs or Mark Zuckerberg.

Others may be wealthier or more influential atop the worlds of technology, media, fashion and finance, but these 10 not only reap billions from their holdings but also shape our tastes–what we wear, watch, read, invest in and, increasingly, how we communicate with each other.

On this last point no one trumps teen titan turned household name Mark Zuckerberg. With the exploding interest in Facebook, the former Harvard student is now a billionaire (net worth $4 billion) and one of the most recognizable people among millions of social-media obsessed Americans, who have put his company at the center of their daily lives.

Expect his profile to grow now that Hollywood has taken interest. David Fincher ( Seven, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button) is directing a film starring Jesse Eisenberg and Justin Timberlake about the early days at the company.

The founder and media favorite Steve Jobs (net worth $5.5 billion) is even more influential and well-known. While fellow technology titans like Oracle billionaire Larry Ellison ($28 billion) and Michael Dell ($13.5 billion) may be worth far more, Jobs is unquestionably the face of Silicon Valley. A lifetime creating groundbreaking consumer technology products is part of the reason, but he’s also the best showman in the business. Earlier this year he somehow turned the release of a tablet computer free of any radical computing advances into a media event that garnered front-page headlines around the world.

For those who are influenced by what the rich wear . . . Whether you need a cocktail dress, prom dresses or any other formal evening dress in plus size, misses or petite sizes you can find them online. You don’t have to spend a fortune on formal wear or designer dresses to look great for your special occasion.  You can find dresses for homecoming that come directly from the designer to you online.

This kind of bewitching star power is ripe for parody. A comedy series inspired by a fictional Steve Jobs blog and follow-up book written by former Forbes staffer Dan Lyons is being developed for pay cable channel Epix.

Oprah Winfrey doesn’t need any more media hype–and may actually profit from less. Over the last 25 years Winfrey turned her syndicated talk show into America’s town square and built a $2.4 billion fortune along the way. The upcoming season will be the last for Winfrey’s eponymous talk show, an announcement that brought the Queen of All Media to tears late last year. While spin-offs from Dr. Oz, Dr. Phil and Rachael Ray will continue, Winfrey has her eyes set on something bigger: the Oprah Winfrey Network, a cable network jointly owned by poised to bow in January 2011.

Let’s not forget another similar story with universal appeal, Steven Spielberg ($3 billion).  He is Hollywood’s preeminent storyteller and has been for two generations.  He is the man behind the library of seminal films that include Jaws, Raiders of the lost Ark, ET, Jurassic Park and Schindler’s list.  Recently he has released a fourth installment of Indiana Jones that grossed $786 million globally.  Now he is about to start a new film company with $1.5 billion with India’s Reliance ADA Group and there is still more fame and fortune to come.

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My Take: For me, the only one of these billionaires that has any influence over me is Steven Spielberg.  He makes excellent movies that are actually enjoyable when seen more than once.  As for influencing what I would wear, I am not going to wear artful dodger jeans just because one of the billionaires did.  That even includes Mek jeans and funny T-shirts!  Besides, I doubt that anybody will catch a billionaire wearing a rude T shirt because it might tarnish their image.

Actually, anyone who is that influenced by someone who is rich and/or famous has very low self-esteem.  They should try thinking for themselves instead of trying to imitate others.  Billionaires are usually more interested in promotional products for their companies.  You’ll often see a businessman in a casual situation handing out imprinted pens or promotional T-shirts to promote their companies.

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Today, you rarely see a celebrity smoking in public.  If you do, they are probably using e cigarettes contain only water, liquid nicotine and flavoring.  There is absolutely no tar, no carcinogens, and no carbon monoxide and know particulates.  An e cigarette is electronic, that means that it does not burn like a regular cigarette. It produces a vapor mist that is completely satisfying to the smoker in every way that a conventional cigarettte is.  It also means that the e-cig is healthier!

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Apparel and Textile Inspections Increased by Customs

October 5th, 2009 | No Comments | Posted in Fashion

Cited: Apparel News

Fashion 2The Long Beach and Los Angeles US customs inspectors have begun examining apparel and textile imports from Asia to determine if the goods are undervaluing or misclassified as well as whether they should be slapped with higher terror.  As a result, landed-duty paid or LDP goods shipped by manufacturers and retailers are paying thousands of dollars more in duties and senior shipments held up for days or weeks for inspection.  Consequently, this is raised a red flag.

“The [customs] textile staff used to spend 95 percent of their time on apparel and textile quotas, which have expired. Now they have time to focus on other issues, including that proper duties are being paid,” said Los Angeles customs attorney Richard Wortman, who is with Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt.

According to Wortman, collecting proper duties has become a priority trade issue this year for the Customs and Border Protection team, in charge of inspecting cargo passing through the U.S. borders.

Because the port complex in Los Angeles and Long Beach receives about 45 percent of all the container cargo coming into the United States, these inspections, which have been limited to apparel and textiles, are concentrated here.

Apparel and textiles are a highly lucrative category for customs officials because the tariffs levied on clothing and fabric brought into the United States are some of the highest. Tariffs can run as much as 32 percent on a synthetic shirt. In 2008, apparel and textile importers paid 42 percent of the $26.2 billion in duties collected by customs, government officials said.

For more than two years, Janet Labuda, customs’ director of textile enforcement and operations, has been warning that LDP shipments—where the overseas factory arranges for shipment, customs inspection, duties, fees and transportation to an importer’s warehouse—would come under intense examination. Free on board (FOB) shipments—in which the U.S. importer arranges for the goods’ shipment, transportation and customs clearance—are not being tagged for eagle-eye review.

In her various warnings, Labuda explained that LDP shipping is frequently used for smuggling counterfeit items, transshipping goods to other countries with apparel quotas, or skirting duties by undervaluing goods or mislabeling them.  Labuda made these warnings several times at gatherings organized by the California Fashion Association, headed by Ilse Metchek.

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These days, however, Labuda is keeping mum about customs’ latest campaign to ferret out illegal and undervalued shipments. “I can’t comment at this time,” she said from her Washington, D.C., office.  It was around last December that customs brokers and freight forwarders got wind that the ports’ customs teams would finally be readying their magnifying glasses to examine LDP shipping documents, making sure they matched the contents and value of goods inside the box.

Tom Gould, president of Tom Gould Customs Consulting, who works with a number of apparel importers, said he was at a holiday luncheon with several port and customs officials last year when he asked what was on customs’ agenda now that safeguard measures, or temporary quotas, on 34 categories of Chinese apparel and textiles were expiring at midnight on Dec. 31, 2008. “‘Well, we haven’t looked at the value of apparel shipments for a while,’ was their reply,” he said.  Customs’ new direction started a few months ago, but it became more intense at the beginning of August.

“This is something that customs has always been concerned about,’ noted Brian Murphy, a customs attorney with Stein Shostak, Shostak Pollack & O’Hara LLP, in Los Angeles. “It’s just an issue that has gotten a lot more focused recently.”Fashion 4

Murphy said customs first concentrates on whether the importer of record—such as a freight forwarder, customs broker or agent—has the “right to make entry.” Customs has certain rules and regulations about this. Qualified importers are either the owners or purchasers of the apparel or a consignee, such as a licensed customs broker.

But this is where it gets sticky. Often, Chinese factories designate their own agents as the importer of record even though they have no financial link to the shipment. The agents receive a fee to get the goods through customs and onto a truck headed for a warehouse. There have been accusations that these agents don’t care about what is inside the boxes or whether they are misclassified.

If customs suspects the importer of rec­ord is not valid, officials will start inspecting the goods and looking at their value. Or they will suggest the apparel importer hire a licensed customs broker, who is licensed by customs, to bring the goods through.

“There is a ‘right to make entry’ issue, and then there is a ‘value’ issue, and they dovetail,” Murphy said. “This can add a few days, a couple of weeks or even 30 days on getting goods through. It depends on how quickly the problem is resolved.”

Richard Wortman has been seeing the same thing. “The bottom line is customs has been scrutinizing whether these parties have the right to make entry. If they don’t have the right to make entry, they have been refusing and rejecting the entries and requiring either that the ultimate consignee [the importer] make entry, or, in some cases, a broker has made entry on behalf of the customer,” he said.

Shipping goods on an LDP basis has become increasingly popular among apparel importers. It eliminates importing staffs, and importers incur less risk.  All they do is pay the LDP price to the foreign factory, which takes care of everything, and the goods land in the importer’s warehouse.

Not only do apparel importers have fewer hassles, they don’t have to pay for the goods until they arrive. “LDP has become more common in the last couple of years because of financing,” said John Salvo, president of Carmichael International Service, a Los Angeles freight forwarder and customs brokerage firm that has a large apparel clientele. “Importers don’t want to pay until the goods get to their warehouses.”

Fashion 1Oftentimes, shipping FOB sets the payment clock ticking from the time the apparel leaves the factory. By shipping FOB, the U.S. apparel importer is responsible for trucking the garments from the foreign factory to the ship, getting it on the ship, through customs and trucking it to the warehouse. But there is less room for fudging import documents.

“Some [apparel] companies just don’t want the responsibility of shipping FOB,” Salvo said.

There has been no indication of when this wave of inspections would in, it probably will not be too soon.  Trade is finally beginning to gain attention with the Obama administration which has been concentrating on fixing the economy and pushing health care reform.  The Obama administration imposed a 35% punitive Tara on Chinese tires believed to be dumped in the US market on September 11.  Since the safeguard on tires as a percentage, apparel importers here that US textile factories may lobby for the same measures.

“I think the Obama administration has been asleep at the wheel on trade issues while they focus on other things,” said Robert Krieger, president of Krieger Worldwide, an international freight forwarder and customs brokerage firm in the Los Angeles area. “And now trade is starting to become an issue.”

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My Take: I think they should tax stuff being imported into the country!  Raise those taxes!  Maybe people would be buying American more and putting money into America.  However, everything from China or Taiwan is always cheaper.  Not only is it cheaper, it is usually of lower quality.

I think if people bought more American-made items, like clothing, not only would they get a better product but it would also help the economy more.  Yeah, things from Taiwan and China are cheaper but their quality is lower and the only reason they are cheaper is because they can pay their workers less.  Did you ever see where some of those workers live?

So yes, I think they should raise the tariff taxes on any and all imported items.  I guess that I’m just one of those people were tired of seeing “Made in China” or “Made in Taiwan” on the items that I purchase.  I bought an item the other day, toothpicks of all things and when I got home and put them in the cupboard I saw the little sticker that said “Made in America”.  I think I stood there for 10 minutes before I put it down.  I was in utter shock.

There is only one thing I know for sure that is made in America are party invites.  The paper may not be but those birthday party invitations are printed right here in America.  Of course, some invitations are ordered from overseas.  But you can find various invitations are printed right here in the United States for bridal showers or baby showers.

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